Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine Ref. 30130/000P-9876 – A Visual Feast

The Caliber 2795, developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin is a manual-winding movement made out of 169 small intricate components. This 27 jewel masterpiece is a tourbillon and operates at the 2.5 Hz or 18,000 vibrations/hour range. The main springs has approximately 45 hours power reserve.

Taking this beautiful movement, Vacheron Constantin married it into a 950 platinum curving 38 x 48.24 casing. This tonneau-shaped movement perfectly tailored to the case. Hence the birth of a 50 unit production run of the Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine.

The dial comes in a sandblasted finish with white gold Roman numerals and hour-markers. The mesmerizing tourbillon bearing the seconds hand sits at the 6 o’clock position.

The display case back with the large bridge in the center, gives an impression that the heart of the movement, the toubillon, has its own separate location compared to the rest of the mechanism. Regardless of the actual setup of the Caliber, it is a visual feast.

Whoever has the opportunity to get this watch is a very lucky person.

Halios Tropik B – Uneven Patina Makes It Look Dirty

Although technically a dive watch, Halios’ new Tropik B could easily find a home as a dress watch. By using aluminum bronze for its case and bezel, the Tropik B exhibits subtle yellow tones. That alloy combination delivers extreme strength and increased corrosion resistance; it will develop a grey patina over time. A sturdy Miyota 9015 engine powers the whole handsome package.

Note the patina on the bezel. Its uneven and it makes the watch looks dirty. This is why I shun bronze.

Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Power Reserve Bronzo (PAM00507) – Emmmmrm

Panerai’s first experiment with bronze. The soft warmth of the PAM00507’s patinated case and unidirectional bezel play immeasurably well against the muted green dial. Powered by Panerai’s in-house P.9002 calibre, the PAM 507 carries a 3-day power reserve that can be counted down by glancing near the 5:00 marker.

Look at the watch reminds me of a pothole of a ship. I don’t care much about that image hence I don’t find this watch esthetically pleasing to me. Sorry.

Archimede Pilot 42 Bronze Automatic – Good Enough….

The Archimede Bronze Pilot offers a simple design. The brushed finish of the CuSn8 (92% copper, 8% tin) bronze shows quality of manufacture. At 42mm, this Archimede is properly sized in my opinion. The large crown is synonymous with pilot watches of old and a nice design attractive to an otherwise sterile watch case. Powered by ETA 2824-2 automatic movement, it should have at least 40 hours of reserve time. You can view the movement via an exhibition case back.

I do not own a bronze watch before. Although bronze is better for protection against corrosion due to the creation of a protective layer (the oxide, hence the patina), I can’t bring it to myself to get one knowing full well it will change the way it look in a short space of time. Nevertheless, I would eventually get one for the experience. What better model then this fine example to be the first.

Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Contemporain Watch In White Gold – A Disappointment, Expected More

The latest incarnation of the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Contemporain comes in white gold casing and a titanium dial. The design of the dial itself is exquisite and generates a three-dimensional effect.

To make the illusion that the regulator is floating in mid-air, the designers used a transparent synthetic sapphire bridge. Unfortunately, in the photo below, the bridge is obvious to see and the use of such a crystal when such material is not used in other parts of the watch makes it stand out like a sore thumb.

I also question the design philosophy for the display case-back. I don’t get it. Aren’t you suppose to use this opportunity to flaunt the engineering marvel? Why hide them behind sub-panels? Is the only interesting thing to see is the main gears???

I expected more and unfortunately Greubel Forsey disappointed me. I expected art in design, I expected to see exotic material, I expected to see engineering marvel……

Wisdom Minute Repeater Watch By Emile Chouriet Is Designed For The Purist

The second design creation by Emile Chouriet under its Wisdom Collection series is a minute repeater that uses sounds of its gongs to indicate time. The case measures 45 mm in diameter and made out of 18 karat pink gold. The flared lugs give that old vintage look.

The dial is made of of two layers, a pink gold frame over a handmade enameled painting. The painting is a portrait of Francois Dagobert Depery, an 18th century watchmaker from Geneva. The watch is powered by a Calibre EC720 hand-winding movement. There’s information printed on the dial which gives readers immediate information about the watch and its complications.

This watch is definitely designed for the purist. Normal layman will not be able to comprehend the exquisite movement, its capabilities as well as what it represents to the world of horology. Unfortunately, the value is way above the affordability of many watch nerds.

The Beautiful Blue Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph

The Omega Seamaster 300m has been an icon from Omega since the first one was introduced back in 1957 (by the way that’s the Independence Year for Malaysia from the British). I always wanted one in my collection but priorities dictates the acquisition had to be far ahead in the future.

Recently, Omega released the Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph features a lacquered blue dial with a 30-minute recorder at 3 o’clock, a 12-hour recorder at 6 o’clock and a small seconds dial at 9 o’clock. Protected by a domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, this watch takes my breath away. Coupled with the polished blue ceramic bezel, the simmering indigo blue of the watch mesmerizes you into thinking that you are looking into the deep blue sea.

The watch case is a well balanced with a diameter of 41.5 mm stainless steel case with a helium-escape valve and an integrated date corrector at 10 o’clock. Capable of 300 meters of water pressure, this watch is not only a dress watch but also a tool watch to boot.

The engine that powers this beauty is the Co-Axial calibre 3330. It is a aelf-winding chronograph with column-wheel mechanism and Co-Axial Escapement. It has a free sprung-balance equipped with Si14 silicon balance spring. It is also a fully certified chronometer. The main springs can save up to 52 hours worth of potential energy.

I usually shun away from chronograph watches but this one is different. The frame hands and the colour make it desirable in my mind. Although I have not held one yet, I sense that it will be awesome on my wrist.  Can’t wait for a unit to arrive at an Authorised Dealer in Kuala Lumpur for me test.

New in-house movement by Tag Heuer; Calibre 1969

Tag Heuer has just launched its latest in-house movement, the Calibre 1969. A chronograph, it comes with a vertical-clutch system.

The new movement operates in the 28,800 vibrations per hour (4hz) range has a 70-hour power reserve capacity. Due to the larger main springs required, it thickness is at a respectable 6.5 mm thick.

The Calibre 1969 dial layout will have the chronograph minutes at 3 o’clock, the chronograph hours at 9 o’clock and the running seconds at 6 o’clock.

The movement features more than 200 components. Unfortunately, some parts still need sourcing from external manufacturers.

 

[Photos and info from http://www.calibre11.com/tag-heuer-calibre-1969-first-look/%5D