New kid on the block for dive watches – GUCCI!!!

At Baselworld, Gucci announced it will start producing the Gucci Dive – a divers’ watch, ISO standard 6425 certified. After the first official photos were released, I really got excited as it has all the key things that I wish for in any mechanical watch. Feast your eyes on this =>

The Dive is water-resistant to 300 meters. It is 45 mm in diameter and has a screwed caseback, stamped with a Gucci crest, and a unidirectional rotating bezel. The indicator for the 46-hour power reserve is at 5 o’clock. The small seconds are at 9 and the date window is between 1 and 2 o’clock. The skeletonized hour and minutes hands, as well as the hour markers, have luminous coating.

The engine powering this timepiece is a GP3300, a high-end automatic made by the Sowind Group.

The power reserve indicator is a very important complication that every mechanical watch should have. This is something I would continue to stress every opportunity I have. Well done Gucci! You have just gotten a convert. In addition, I must say the design of the second indicator is cool.


A new stunning timepiece for Urwerk: The EMC, the world’s first first self-monitoring and user-adjustable mechanical wristwatch

As explained in the title, this wristwatch is the first mechanical wristwatch which allows the user to regulate the watch. The EMC comes with a built-in electronic rate monitor as well as user regulation device.

At the top left is the rate variation display sub-dial, measured from -20 to +20 seconds. To its right is the constant seconds hand sub-dial, and below that the hours and minutes sub-dial. At the bottom left is the power reserve indicator sub-dial.

Meanwhile the large crown is at the South side of the watch case. In the picture you would also noticed the lever on the right side of the watch case that powers the rate measuring mechanism. At the moment it is in the “tuck-in” position.

The material used for the case is stainless steel front plate and a titanium back. Due to the large surface of steel used, the likelihood of scratching is substantial.

Relative to contemporary watches, its dimension of 43 mm wide by 51 mm long makes it a slightly larger on average. If you can carry a 42 mm wide dive watch on your wrist, this watch should not pose any problems for you.

The in-house EMC movement is  visible through a display back and composed of two parts. The first is a hand-wound movement and the other is the rate measurement mechanism.

An integrated circuit, with an attached quartz oscillator which acts as a reference timekeeper, measures the actual rate variation of the movement against the quartz reference. The result is subsequently displayed on the rate variation sub-dial in front.

The whole movement is self-contained. The integrated circuit gets its electricity from a tiny kinetic energy generator powered by a hand-crank which can be folded out from the watch case.

The user first needs to turn the generator approximately a few times, which gives enough power for a few rate comparisons, and then press the button at the nine o’clock position. The rate variation will then be shown on the sub-dial. With that information, the user then turns a tiny screw on the back of the watch to speed up or slow down the rate.

As an engineering piece this tool is unique. The design is first class and I like the way it was made and presented. If money is not an option to me, I’ll get one.

However, I do question the practical use of such a complication. Such a solution is only useful if the mechanism is so complicated that slight changes in temperature, humidity, gravitational pull of the moon and sun etc. can have a profound impact on the accuracy.

If this is the case, would it be simpler to get a Seiko 5 automatic watch instead?

Android Virtuoso Tungsten T-100 uses Tungsten, the metal with a very high melting point

This piece by American brand Android is the bomb. Tungsten is beautiful in appearance and makes it a very attractive choice in watch production. The shine is something you would not see in stainless steel watches.

The timepiece measures a substantial 48mm x 18mm excluding the crown & lugs. The watch is also water resistant to 200 meters.

Meccaniche Veloci Quattro Valvole CCM is made out of Brembo Carbon Ceramic brakes

Meccaniche Veloci’s Quattro Valvole CCM is the flagship model that claims to being the first wristwatch entirely constructed from Brembo Carbon Ceramic brakes.

Not only has it a unique texture but the presence of 4 separate mechanical clocks on the dial is a sight to behold. In all honesty, why does one need 4 times zones anyway?

Dimensionally its 50mm x 18mm. Underneath the robust case there are four separate 25 jewel Swiss made movements. Only 100 pieces were made.

Dzmitry Samal Concrete Watch uses a material that is readily available

Not a lot of people associate concrete as a base structure for a mechanical tool apart from buildings. Nevertheless, people have been using concrete to make boats, even submarines!

This fact must have been by Dzmitry Samal decided to use this material for his Concrete Watch design. A real out-of-the-box thinking to choose concrete over other more exotic elements for a wristwatch.

With a diameter of 52mm excluding the crowns, this is a large watch.

The beauty of this material is its ability to be molded into any shape one desires.

Richard Mille RM 056 Filipe Massa is made predominantly out of Sapphire

Once in a while a watch maker will take the initiative to use exotic materials for a watch design they have in mind. Generally done in very small production runs, these watches are unique because of the special production process they have to go through to be made.

Richard Mille’s RM 056 Filipe Massa Sapphire is one such timepiece. The case of the watch is entirely constructed from Sapphire Crystal involving over 1000 hours of machining. Functionally the timepiece features a tourbillon movement with split second mechanism.

The caliber RMCC1 comprises 35 Jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 21,600 vph (3 Hz). The dimensions of watch measures 50.50 mm x 42.70 mm x 19.25 mm. Only five pieces were made.

This watch may be difficult to scratch but will it be able to withstand any impact such as being dropped?

Patek Philippe designated Reference 5980/1AR-001 Nautilus versus my dream Nautilus

Every watch collector has a Holy Grail, the watch to cap his or her collection. For me, the Patek Philippe Nautilus is my Holy Grail.

Recently, Patek Philippe released this model, designated Reference 5980/1AR-001, the first in the revamped Nautilus family to combine stainless steel and rose gold, with gold used for the bezel, screw-down crown, and chronograph pushers. The bracelet has both steel and gold links.

The case is 40.5 mm in diameter and water-resistant to 120 meters. Gold, treated with luminescent coating, is also used for the hour markers on the blue gradient dial. The dial has a date window at 3 o’clock and a chronograph subdial at 6 o’clock that tallies both minutes (up to 60) and hours (up to 12), while the central chronograph hand sweeps around the dial.

The movement, which can be seen through a sapphire window in the caseback, is Patek Philippe’s Caliber CH 28-520 C, an automatic movement powering a date indicator and chronograph function. It is 30 mm in diameter and 6.63 mm thick, with 327 parts total, including 35 jewels and 13 bridges. Its Gyromax balance oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vph (4 Hz).

Personally, this is not the model under the Nautilus series that I dream of. A full stainless steel or titanium construction without the gold would be my thing. Exchanging the chronograph complication with a power reserve indicator and substituting the gold bezel for a ceramic one plus retaining the blue dial would make a model of Nautilus that I would die for.

So Patek Philippe, can you make one based on my specification?