Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Contemporain Watch In White Gold – A Disappointment, Expected More

The latest incarnation of the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Contemporain comes in white gold casing and a titanium dial. The design of the dial itself is exquisite and generates a three-dimensional effect.

To make the illusion that the regulator is floating in mid-air, the designers used a transparent synthetic sapphire bridge. Unfortunately, in the photo below, the bridge is obvious to see and the use of such a crystal when such material is not used in other parts of the watch makes it stand out like a sore thumb.

I also question the design philosophy for the display case-back. I don’t get it. Aren’t you suppose to use this opportunity to flaunt the engineering marvel? Why hide them behind sub-panels? Is the only interesting thing to see is the main gears???

I expected more and unfortunately Greubel Forsey disappointed me. I expected art in design, I expected to see exotic material, I expected to see engineering marvel……


The Beautiful Blue Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph

The Omega Seamaster 300m has been an icon from Omega since the first one was introduced back in 1957 (by the way that’s the Independence Year for Malaysia from the British). I always wanted one in my collection but priorities dictates the acquisition had to be far ahead in the future.

Recently, Omega released the Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph features a lacquered blue dial with a 30-minute recorder at 3 o’clock, a 12-hour recorder at 6 o’clock and a small seconds dial at 9 o’clock. Protected by a domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, this watch takes my breath away. Coupled with the polished blue ceramic bezel, the simmering indigo blue of the watch mesmerizes you into thinking that you are looking into the deep blue sea.

The watch case is a well balanced with a diameter of 41.5 mm stainless steel case with a helium-escape valve and an integrated date corrector at 10 o’clock. Capable of 300 meters of water pressure, this watch is not only a dress watch but also a tool watch to boot.

The engine that powers this beauty is the Co-Axial calibre 3330. It is a aelf-winding chronograph with column-wheel mechanism and Co-Axial Escapement. It has a free sprung-balance equipped with Si14 silicon balance spring. It is also a fully certified chronometer. The main springs can save up to 52 hours worth of potential energy.

I usually shun away from chronograph watches but this one is different. The frame hands and the colour make it desirable in my mind. Although I have not held one yet, I sense that it will be awesome on my wrist.  Can’t wait for a unit to arrive at an Authorised Dealer in Kuala Lumpur for me test.

The Charming Bird by Jaquet Droz is a Marriage between Horology and Robotic

For 2013, in celebrating its 275th anniversary, Jaquet Droz introduced The Charming Bird, a watch that combines high end mechanical movement design and a miniature mechanical robot. This timepiece has a tiny singing bird in a 47mm-diameter casing.

The intricate mechanism incorporated in the watch allows the bird turns, flaps its wings, moves its head and tail, and opens its beak to chirp. The complication is powered by a piston-driven bellows system.

The crown at the 12 o’clock position provides power and adjustment to the watch mechanism while the crown at the 2 o’clock position provides the same for the robotic bird as well as initiate the performance.

The bellows system used in this timepiece is unique and a patent has been filed for the design.

I suspect Jaquet Droz already has a number of other robotic wristwatches planned using this new design. Just can’t wait to see them.

If you are looking for a thin mechanical watch, look no further than the Altiplano series by Piaget

The Altiplano collection has been a mainstay of Piaget’s range for decades, and extreme thinness is its call to fame. The famous 9P and 12P movements Piaget are legands in their own right. The hand-wound 9P calibre was a technological revolution right from its creation in 1957. Three years later, in 1960, the launch of the 12P, the thinnest self-winding movement in the world made Piaget the undisputed champion of ultra-thin movements.

The Altiplano Skeleton (see top) housed the word’s thinnest skeleton movement at just 2.4mm. The skeleton movement allows an unobstructed view of the many intricacies inherent in the mechanism. The off-centre platinum micro-rotor is another Piaget innovation. Below is a picture that shows how thin this watch is.

Apart from the Skeleton, other designs are available. This next one is my favorite.

For a classic dress watch, the Piaget Altiplano Date 40mm is a must.

Overall, a set of designs that will continue to be the core of Piaget’s collection.

Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon Watch – large moon!

The HM Perpetual Moon watch is an addition to the ‘Royal Collection’ series of Arnold & Son. It’s called the Perpetual Moon because of the accuracy of the moon phase movement that deviates by only one day in every 122 years and the deviation can be corrected with a single push on the corrector.

The three-dimensional, hand-engraved moon phase display is made of silver and is detailed very intricately.

There is another indicator on the flip side of the watch, visible through a transparent back case. The moon can be in two different cases namely, stainless steel and 18K rose gold. The dial also has three options; one being a black guilloche dial, the second one is a blue guilloche dial and the last one is a cream colored dial.

Beneath the guilloche dial there is 1512 hand wound mechanical movement which comprises of more than 27 jewels.

IWC Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia Watch – customizable

After ten years of researching, IWC Portuguese has come up with a watch that displays both solar as well as sidereal time – The Sidérale Scafusia.

The length of an average day is approximately 24 hours i.e., according to the solar time but the sidereal time that measures the time is four minutes shorter than the solar one hence the Sidérale Scafusia has a counter at 12 o’ clock to display the sidereal time.

The seconds are displayed on a huge constant-force tourbillon at 9 o’ clock which occupies a quarter of the dial and the solar time is displayed in the traditional style. Unlike other watches the Sidérale Scafusia has two displays, one that displays time and the other on the flip side displaying an astronomical chart of the day and night sky that change throughout the day.

The location of the chart depends on the area chosen by the user and displays precisely 500-1000 stars. The watch has a hand-wound mechanical movement and the case is available in three variants: Platinum, 18K rose gold and 18K white gold. The watch has a diameter of 46mm and has a 96 hour power reserve when fully wound. The Sidérale Scafusia is completely customizable and has over 200 design options available. Yours for only USD 807,615.

De Bethune – DB16 Régulateur Tourbillon – clean and classical

De Bethune’s DB 16 Tourbillon Regulator integrates a perpetual calendar with a three-dimensional moon-phase complication with a retrograde setting scale, as well as deadbeat seconds.

There is also a lightweight silicon and titanium tourbillon weighing a mere 18 grams, and features a 30-second indicator around it. The dial looks clean where the moon-phase complication takes the centre-stage at 12 o’clock, while the date indicator balances out at 6 o’clock.

A mixture of subtle design features such as the blued hands and perpetual calendar windows at 3 and 9 o’clock makes the dial elegantly classic.

There’s Roman numerals for the hour markers and train track minutes indicators with Arabic numerals every five minutes. The 43mm pink gold case with the De Bethune cone-shaped lugs completes the package. All this can be yours for USD 380,000.