Halios Tropik B – Uneven Patina Makes It Look Dirty

Although technically a dive watch, Halios’ new Tropik B could easily find a home as a dress watch. By using aluminum bronze for its case and bezel, the Tropik B exhibits subtle yellow tones. That alloy combination delivers extreme strength and increased corrosion resistance; it will develop a grey patina over time. A sturdy Miyota 9015 engine powers the whole handsome package.

Note the patina on the bezel. Its uneven and it makes the watch looks dirty. This is why I shun bronze.

New in-house movement by Tag Heuer; Calibre 1969

Tag Heuer has just launched its latest in-house movement, the Calibre 1969. A chronograph, it comes with a vertical-clutch system.

The new movement operates in the 28,800 vibrations per hour (4hz) range has a 70-hour power reserve capacity. Due to the larger main springs required, it thickness is at a respectable 6.5 mm thick.

The Calibre 1969 dial layout will have the chronograph minutes at 3 o’clock, the chronograph hours at 9 o’clock and the running seconds at 6 o’clock.

The movement features more than 200 components. Unfortunately, some parts still need sourcing from external manufacturers.

 

[Photos and info from http://www.calibre11.com/tag-heuer-calibre-1969-first-look/%5D

English watchmaker Speake-Marin introduces the Spirit MK II DLC

The three-dimensional, black matte watch features numerals and hour markers in white Super-LumiNova, which contrast against the light-absorbing finished case, making it easy to refer to. This watch has an automatic movement.

With the help of a second barrel, the watch has a five-day power reserve. The dial is framed by a hand-finished circular grained bezel and the 42mm sandblasted stainless steel case is coated with anthracite DLC. The case back is solid and slightly domed with a message on it that reads “fight, love & persevere”.

Christopher Ward’s C900 Worldtimer is a beautiful watch

The movement of this watch is a modified ETA 2893 which has been given a reference Calibre JJ03 by Christopher Ward. The modification allows the adjustments of the hour, minute, GMT as well as the reference city as indicated by the airport code in the window at the 12 o’clock position by manipulating a single crown.

Moreover, the choice of the airport code also translate to a red dot to be shown of the geographic location chosen on the C900’s 3-dimensional world map dial.

The modification made to allow a single crown to control all the complications in the watch is an achievement. In fact, I was made to understand a patent has been applied for it.

There is a display window at the case back to see the movement in action. All around the metal part of the case back, the definition of all the airport codes to the respective cities are listed.

For a traveler, this watch has a complication that makes tracking timezones a very simple affair. I like it and, if given the opportunity, I could get one.

A new stunning timepiece for Urwerk: The EMC, the world’s first first self-monitoring and user-adjustable mechanical wristwatch

As explained in the title, this wristwatch is the first mechanical wristwatch which allows the user to regulate the watch. The EMC comes with a built-in electronic rate monitor as well as user regulation device.

At the top left is the rate variation display sub-dial, measured from -20 to +20 seconds. To its right is the constant seconds hand sub-dial, and below that the hours and minutes sub-dial. At the bottom left is the power reserve indicator sub-dial.

Meanwhile the large crown is at the South side of the watch case. In the picture you would also noticed the lever on the right side of the watch case that powers the rate measuring mechanism. At the moment it is in the “tuck-in” position.

The material used for the case is stainless steel front plate and a titanium back. Due to the large surface of steel used, the likelihood of scratching is substantial.

Relative to contemporary watches, its dimension of 43 mm wide by 51 mm long makes it a slightly larger on average. If you can carry a 42 mm wide dive watch on your wrist, this watch should not pose any problems for you.

The in-house EMC movement is  visible through a display back and composed of two parts. The first is a hand-wound movement and the other is the rate measurement mechanism.

An integrated circuit, with an attached quartz oscillator which acts as a reference timekeeper, measures the actual rate variation of the movement against the quartz reference. The result is subsequently displayed on the rate variation sub-dial in front.

The whole movement is self-contained. The integrated circuit gets its electricity from a tiny kinetic energy generator powered by a hand-crank which can be folded out from the watch case.

The user first needs to turn the generator approximately a few times, which gives enough power for a few rate comparisons, and then press the button at the nine o’clock position. The rate variation will then be shown on the sub-dial. With that information, the user then turns a tiny screw on the back of the watch to speed up or slow down the rate.

As an engineering piece this tool is unique. The design is first class and I like the way it was made and presented. If money is not an option to me, I’ll get one.

However, I do question the practical use of such a complication. Such a solution is only useful if the mechanism is so complicated that slight changes in temperature, humidity, gravitational pull of the moon and sun etc. can have a profound impact on the accuracy.

If this is the case, would it be simpler to get a Seiko 5 automatic watch instead?

Meccaniche Veloci Quattro Valvole CCM is made out of Brembo Carbon Ceramic brakes

Meccaniche Veloci’s Quattro Valvole CCM is the flagship model that claims to being the first wristwatch entirely constructed from Brembo Carbon Ceramic brakes.

Not only has it a unique texture but the presence of 4 separate mechanical clocks on the dial is a sight to behold. In all honesty, why does one need 4 times zones anyway?

Dimensionally its 50mm x 18mm. Underneath the robust case there are four separate 25 jewel Swiss made movements. Only 100 pieces were made.